Hot Springs NP

31 July 2013

Hot Springs National Park is one of those places that everyone should visit. Yes it is a bit touristy, its hot (in the summer, very hot) a bit over priced for some things but we did enjoy ourselves very much.  After we parked Tricera- Pod (trailer) at Gulpha Gorge Campground, which by the way is one of the best National Parks campgrounds ( more about this site on our camping adventures blog) we strolled into town for our tour. We were just in time for a Ranger led tour and she was very informative. We strolled along the Promenade were once the rich and famous showed off their latest fashions and tested the 140 degree waters coming right out of the ground.

 After touring the visitor center and taking pictures of all the old spa's along the street it was time for our spa treatment.  With only two to choose from we decided on the Quapaw spa. We did stop at the other spa center but there were a few too many old creepy men (attendants) hanging around so we moved on the Quapaw. Sandee got the full Monte, message, facial, private bath etc. We wanted to do a couples treatment but there were no more openings. So I took in the bath and the steam cave. If you want to treat yourself this is the place, but be prepared to dish out a few coins for this treatment. If you just want to take the bath it is cheap. The bath's has four separate pools from 89-104 degrees. The attendants on had make sure you have plenty of cold water to drink as well.

 All in all it was a great experience and we do plane to re-visit Hot Springs  National Park, but when the weather is not so hot.

                                                   Quapaw bath where we took the waters

                                         Ranger led tour at one of the open springs, 140 degree's

                                              Promenade where the ladies showed off

                                                Hot water cascading down hill into a pool

 

 

Fort Smith NHS

30  July 2013

Our visit to Fort Smith National Historic Site took place on a day George Wilson was hung on 30 July, 1896 until he was dead.  The Rangers were going to give a talk on the man and his trial but we would have had to wait two hours for that so we decided we needed to move along.  You can still see a re-created gallows complete with a hangman's noose which is only displayed on the days a person was hung.

  Inside the old court and jail building you can see many displays on frontier justice as it was dealt by Judge Parker, aka "The Hanging Judge".  Which is really a misnomer as the law of the land in his day said he had to hang a person if they were found guilty. So over 150 times men and some women were found guilty of crimes that called for the death penalty and Judge Parker so ordered these folks death. However, only about 86 of those found guilty under Judge Parker were ever hung for their offences.

  You can visit the old court room as it was seen back in Judge Parkers day. This exhibit and the gallows was the most interesting part of the entire site.  There is also an exhibit on the Trail of Tears, as many of the Native Americans found Fort Smith the last stop before they entered Indian Territory and their new home.

 If you have ever seen the movies "Hang'em High" or "True Grit" these movies are based in part around Fort Smith, however the films were never filmed on the Fort Smith location. The lead characters in both these movies could be based in part on a real life person, Deputy Marshal Bass Reeves. A former slave turned lawman he along with Native American lawman were mostly responsible for being outlaws to justice when Fort Smith was an active court. I had heard a number of stories about Bass Reeves and I picked up what I hope is a pretty good book on his life to find out more about the man.

 A couple hours will give you a pretty good feel what life was like back during the time of Judge Parker so if you are near Fort Smith do take the time to stop.

                                                     Fort Smith Court House and Jail

                                  Jail area, no heat, no a/c, & a bucket for a toilet back in the day

 

                                                        The hangman's noose

 

                                                       Judge Parker's Courtroom

George Washington Carver NM

30 July 2013

After our visit to the Tuskegee Institute a few years ago we thought we would really enjoy our visit to George Washington Carver National Monument. While we were not totally disappointed, we were a bit let down. That is not to say we did not like the site, we somehow expected allot more. While Tuskegee had allot more on Mr. Carver's scientific life, at his boyhood home it dwelled more on his earlier life and  his love for nature.

 The visitor center is a beautiful building with allot of updated exhibits and very nicely done. One can spend an entire day walking around the building reading and listening about the life of Mr. Carver. When you are done inside take time to walk the trail around the park. It is very peaceful and you will find yourself deep in thought not only about Mr. Carver's life but yours as well.

  In the end, George Washington Carver NM and Tuskegee are two different aspects on the life on Mr. Carver and you must visit both to get the entire affect of his life.

 

 

Praire Grove Battlefield State Park

29 July 2013

Prairie Grove Battlefield State Park, Arkansas while not a National Park is worth the effort to visit. We have been too many state run historical sites but I have to say this is the best we have ever visited. The visitor center is first rate. You can watch a film about the battle and wonderful exhibits abound for those to view.  The book selections is one of the best I have ever seen in any type of park. Of course I had to pick a few myself.  Once you are done with the visitor center you can walk the grounds surrounding the visitor center and then take a self guided tour in your vehicle of the battlefield.

The battlefield looks much the same as it did on December 7, 1862 Union and Confederate forces collided. But while there is not much else to see other than the scenery, one can just image what it was like on that day. At the end of the day's battle the Confederates retreated and the Union was carried the day.  The battle of Prairie Grove marked the last major Civil War engagement in northwest Arkansas and never again would a southern army attempt to use the area as an invasion point into Missouri.

 While the site may not have the backing of the National Parks, it is still one of those hidden gems and if you are into Civil War history it is must on your list to visit.

                            Visitor Center. Its hard to see but the mural above the doors is beautiful 

                                                        Large monument to the fallen

                                     Re-constructed Post Office that stood on the day of the battle

 

 

Pea Ridge National Battlefield

29 July 2013

The battle of Pea Ridge is also known as the battle that saved Missouri for the Union.  Two major battles were fought to keep Missouri in the Union, Wilson's Creek, Missouri in August of 1861 and Pea Ridge Arkansas in March of 1862. While Wilson Creek was a victory of the Confederates, they were unable to take advantage of their victory and Union forces were able to re-group and meet the Confederates once again at Pea Ridge.

  On March 7 & 8 March, 1862 Confederate forces under the command of Major General Van Dorn with 16,000 men met Union forces under the command of Brig. General Samuel R Curtis of 10,500 strong. In the beginning Confederate forces overwhelmed the Union, but by the end of the day they withdrew and re-organized. The Confederates thought they had the advantage when they took possession of  Elk Horn Tavern, a strategic position on the battlefield.

 The next morning saw a reversal of fortune for the Confederates. A two hour artillery barrage by the Union crippled the Confederate line just before a infantry attack by the Union. With ammunition running low, General Van Dorn ordered his troops to withdraw, this was in of the battle of Pea Ridge.

  A couple of side notes to this area is that a portion of the Trail of Tears runs through the battlefield along Telegraph Road. In addition, during the battle two regiments of Cherokee Indians under the command of Confederate Brig. General Price fought at this battle.

 Today the battlefield is peaceful with little to see except a few cannon and a re-constructed Elk Horn Tavern. If you are looking for a place to stay near the battlefield try camping at Roaring River State Park in Missouri. This park is only 19.8 miles from the battlefield and if camping is not your thing you can still stay in this park as there is a lodge with nice accommodations and a restaurant to boot. The price is much better than staying at a big name hotel and the views are wonderful.

                                                            Elk Horn Tavern

 

Cherokee National Museum

29 July 2013

Approximately two hours from Roaring Springs State Park in Missouri you will find the Cherokee National Museum and George Murrell Home in Tahlequah, Oklahoma. On this occasion we found out that the George Murrell home was closed, but about .8 miles down the road is the Cherokee National Museum which houses an exhibit of the Trail of Tears, a re-make of a Cherokee Village after they settled in OK and a re-constructed village of native life in their ancestral home in the early 1700's.

 One of the biggest surprises for me is when we went to pay our admission fee, the attendant saw that I was wearing my Operation Iraqi Freedom hat and she asked me if I was a veteran. Of course I said yes and she handed us a ticket for free admission.  This has happened to us a number of times in our travels at some sites but nothing with the frequency it happens when we visit sites involving Native American. Every time we visit these site we always receive a substantial discount or admitted for free.  This is due the  respect that Native Americans have for those who defend their homeland.

 After we received our tickets we proceed to the re-constructed Cherokee Village where we were met by a young man who was well versed in his culture in the old and modern ways of his people. We spend two hours with him walking around the village to various sites learning about his culture. We saw a demonstration on  how to make arrow points and bows and pottery.

 One on the highlights of this tour was when the young man took us into the winter lodge enlighten us about the various clans within the Cherokee Tribe and their importance to the Cherokee Nation. He then proceed to sing a few songs in his native language. This young man, at least in my mind and heart, was an inspiration  to me in that he is walking in two worlds, the modern and his true world on his heart and people and it was good to know the ways of his people have not been forgotten.

 After this tour we toured the museum which is very enlightening as well. There are a number of exhibits which you can listen to in both the Cherokee language or in English, I listen to these exhibits in Cherokee, but there is an English translation to follow along as well. The most moving exhibit for me was the life like statues of men, women and children as they might have been seen as they walked the Trail of Tears.  There statues seemed life like to me and the stories you listen to are first and second hand accounts of their trials and tribulations. The entire time I was reading and listening to these accounts of a noble people I had one thought on my mind. Their story was a very familiar one to me and I could not get the thought out of my head of Nazi Concentration Camps of World War Two.

  If you are interested in Native American culture a visit to this site is a  must.

                                          Circa 1710 re-constructed Cherokee Village

                                                               Our Native Guide

                                                      Native making arrow points

 

Wilson's Creek NB

28 July 2013

  On 10 August 1861, Union and Confederate forces met on the battlefield at Wilson's Creek to decide the fate of Missouri.  Missouri was a border state and as such the folks living in this state were just as divided as the rest of the country over succession. 

  At this time, both armies were ill trained, ill armed, and ill prepared for a fight. Many of those on the Confederate side had a variety of weapons and many more did not have weapons at all, these men would have to wait until their comrades fell in battle before they could arm themselves.

 The Union forces were outnumbered by 3 to 1 when they met the Confederate's in the early morning hours. Union General Lyon had earlier divided his forces so as to surround the Confederates, had events gone according to plan  Union forces would have surprised the Confederates and victory would have been theirs. But as often happens in war plans never happen the way they should.

 Union forces under General Sigel met the Confederates around 5:30am by opening up an artillery barrage which scattered and confused them. General Sigel thought he won a major victory, but the Confederates rallied and charged General Sigel's position and routed the Union. General Sigel retreated from the battlefield and left General Lyon alone with approximately 7,000 men to face a Confederate force of about 12,000.

  For several hours General Lyon faced an onslaught on Bloody Hill, but the Confederates would not be denied victory.  Confederate forces over whelmed Union forces but before the end of the day General Lyon would fall in battle, the first Union General to die in the Civil War.

 With Union forces retreating to the supply depot, Confederate Generals could not agree on a strategy to take advnatage of their victory. With Confederate forces exhausted from their victory and a lack of a  plan to attack Union forces again, they moved their forces away from the Union.

 While the battle at Wilson's Creek was Union loss, Confederate forces after being defeated at the battle of Pea Ridge, Arkansas a short time later, Missouri would remain in the Union for the rest of the war. However,  Missouri remained a battle ground as both military and civilian forces would fight each other for the rest of the war and earned it the third largest state with the most battle engagements of the Civil War.

 

 

Ozark NSR- Alley Springs- 17 July 2013

Our next stop in the Ozark NSR was Alley Springs. We enjoyed this site allot more than Big Springs. While the camp site had a bit more shade, the surrounding area seemed a bit more secluded.   We wish we could have stayed at least one more day to take advantage of a trip down the river, but that will have to wait for another time.

 Like many sites in the Ozark NSR, this site too has a spring. This spring however has an addition of a Mill from the 1800's. It is also a paleo Indian site. With 81 million gallons of water flowing through this spring it makes perfect  sense to build a mill on the site. The old mill is no longer in use but it still stands and you can tour the mill and the surrounding  pond. If you are really up to it you can take the 1.5 hike, which we did, once again early morning is the best time to do this sort of thing in the summer. Bring plenty of water as you will need it. The views of the mill and pond are really nice from this hike.

  If you time it right, after your hike go to the visitor center not too far from the mill. They sell nice cold Sioux City Sarsaparilla. After that hike I can tell you it went down real nice. If you are rock hound like us you will see nice examples of chert, pockets of druzzy quartz and inter layered stromatolites.

                                                                             Alley Springs

                                               

                                                                  Alley Springs Mill

                                                  View of Springs & Mill from above on trail

 

                                                       Nice cold refreshing drinks after hike

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Ozark NSR- Round Springs-18 July 2013

On our way to Montauk State Park we stopped at another site in the Ozark NSR, Round Springs. Named after a round opening where a sinkhole formed over the spring's where it comes out from the ground. The annual average output from this spring depends on the annual rain fall but it averages about 26 million gallons a day.

  The visitor center is currently closed but you can walk around the spring and the cavern ( where a number of bats live). During our visit we were the only people around the spring and it was very peaceful. Because we were the only ones around we were lucky enough to see a river otter. We watched him/her swim around the spring for a long time and it was high point of our visit to this spring.

                                                              Round Springs

                                                                Round Springs

                                                                River Otter

                                                                  Bat Cavern

 

 

 

 

 

Ozark National Scenic River (NSR)- Big Springs 16 July 2013

 Ozark National Seneic River is comprised of many different sections  One of these is the Big Springs area. Big Springs is the largest spring in Missouri and one of the largest in the world with a daily average flow of 286 million gallons.

  We took a hike around and above the springs early in the morning, which by the way is the only way to do this hike in the middle of July. Along the way we saw many deer and birds. It was a very nice hike and got the ole heart pumping along. By the time we were done we were ready for breakfast.

 If you do not want to cook, then the lodge provides a pretty good meal as well. All in all it was a pretty nice stay at this site and we saw a number of deer and other critters. Although I have to say the deer are pretty darn small.

                                                                  Big Springs

                                         
                                                                      Big Springs

                                                 Deer in the river near the springs

                                                     View from above the springs

Memphis, TN- 15 July 2013

 After  the National Parks Travelers Club convention  we pointed Tricera-Pod (our Forest  River RV) towards Memphis, TN and T.O. Fuller SP just outside the city. We left  Tricera-Pod in the care of the camp host.  Beale Street in Memphis is allot like Bourbon Street in New Orleans with the exception there is allot of good BBQ and Blues music.  After getting a great catfish dinner and ribs at Blue City Cafe ( Memphis' most famous BBQ joint-Rendezvous was closed), but having met some locals from Memphis at the convention they said Blue City Cafe just as good as the Rendezvous, we decided to give it a try, we were not disappointed.

 After lunch the weather turned bad for awhile and as we stood under an awning to wait out the down pour we heard some great blues music coming from BB Kings across the street from Blue City Cafe. We decided that was the place to be.  A group of ten college students were playing their hearts out  and wish we could have stayed longer to listen to them but we had an appointment to see the march of the ducks at the famous Peabody Hotel .

 Every day at 11am and 5pm the famous Peabody ducks march to and from the main lobby as they have done for almost 80 years now.  We had a front row seat, or I should say a balcony seat right above the fountain where the ducks march to and from the roof each day. The big show began on time at 5pm but the four female and one male ducks had other plans. As they were being herded to the elevators a few of them got away from the Duck Master and it took some time before they were gathered up and on their way to the roof top home for the night.

 After all the great food, drinks and duck march we called it a night. Our stay in the Peabody Hotel was very nice, although an expensive one, but  it is a once in a life time adventure and it is one more item we can check off our bucket list.

                                                             View of Beale Street

 

 

                                                              B B King Club

                                       
                                                 Listening to the Blues on the street

 
                                           The famous ducks at the Peabody Hotel

 

Shiloh National Military Park-14 July 2013

Most people have heard of the battle of Gettysburg, but for many Shiloh is one of those lesser known battles. Some say Gettysburg was the turning point of the Civil War and in many ways this is true, but with the Union victory at Shiloh the major water way of the Tennessee river would not have been secured.  Along with the Mississippi River, the Tennessee was a major cause way providing supplies to the southern cause.
  Over a day period Union and Southern forces battled each other. On the first day Southern forces pushed General Grant back to a point that the Union was in peril of losing it's toe hold to the area. With the coming of night, each army stopped to regroup, collect their wounded and plan for the next days battle. While General Grant sat under a tree smoking his cigar and whittling on a pieces of wood, General Sherman came up and  "Took a whopping today General" Gant respond " Yes, whoop em tomorrow though". During the night the Union army received re-enforcements that turned the battle into a Union victory the next day.
  We attended a Ranger talked in one of the most hotly contended portions of the battle, "The Hornets Nest" so called because the Southern troops marched into a hail of canon and rifle fire that the sound of the bullets in the air sounded like hornets.
 This is a battlefield that takes about three hours or more to get the full view. There are a number of Ranger lectures on the battlefield that give one a better understand of what occurred there.

 

 

                                                                Shiloh Church

 

 

                                                 Many artifacts from the battlefield

 

                                                 Ranger talk at the Hornets Nest

Corinth Civil War Intrepretive Center- 13 July 2013

 We stayed in the town of Corinth, MS and just a few miles from the hotel is the Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center.  The siege of Corinth is part of the Shiloh National Battlefield and a number of smaller battles took place in this town. At the time of the battle there were only 1500 people living there and while the town is in the heart of the Confederacy, many of the local folks were loyal to the Union.  The Southern Army was forced out of the town by the Union and during the occupation by both forces they suffered greatly. Food and water was so scarce that many of the troops became  so sick they died. Soldiers were forced to drink water found in the hoof pints of horses and it was said that the water was so bad that horses refused to drink it.
  During the Union occupation a large community of former slaves built a community were they grew crops and attended schools both for children and adults. For many of these former slaves it was the first time they earned their own money. After the Union left the Corinth, MS they left with them.

Tennessee River Museum-11 July 2013

In the town of Savannah, TN you will find a very interest museum and for the price of $3 you get allot of bang for that $3. The exhibit covers the local region of the area which covers fossils found in the area, woodland Native Americans ( this is by far the largest of the exhibits), Civil War along the Tennessee River, and the local cultured pearl industry (yes TN is the only place in the United States the grows cultured pearls) and the Trail of Tears.  There are two huge petrified tree trunks on the outside of the museum worth seeing. We spent about two hours in the small, but very filled museum.

 

                                                                 Petrified wood log

                                           Part of a collection of over 400 plus Arrow Heads

 

                                             One of only ten known Native stone figures made by                                      Americans

 

 

                                                  Buttons made from cultured pearls